Another Round No. 9
Sign 'O' the Times
Another Round is a recurring article at The Luncheonette, hitting inboxes a couple times a quarter - covering recent topics in hospitality and beverage.
Sending out newsletters, in these times feels wild. As we consume some level of the news - we’re all watching the same show, on a handful of different channels. And as of this writing, writing about wine or hospitality feels frivolous at best, potentially insensitive, and at worst inappropriate.
At least without stating: we are the revolution.
And everything is connected. So, to address what’s happening in wine and hospitality, also demands that respect be paid to what is happening in the United States.
The empire is crumbling, y’all. But it’s a mistake to believe the sky if falling. Because our dear mother nature, has reminded us that she does not believe in hoaxes. Sending a blanket of quiet across the country, as a freezing invitation to slow down and face the shadows, in order to find the light.
That may sound like woo-woo fluff. Yet — as Neptune enters Aires, after fourteen years in Pisces, I promise you the above is anything but…
The cosmic compass is calling for us all to be revolutionary. To create art and prose for the greater good. In our homes, neighborhoods, industries, and ecosystems. To take extraordinary care of ourselves. To be strong, in not only body, but also mind. And yes, even at times to find joy — in the little moments, with our people.
Speaking of people — the artists and writers have been showing us the way for centuries. Now, is no different. Choose carefully and support wildly where artists are fighting for freedoms on stages larger than the ones we stand on in our daily lives.
So here we go with Another Round No. 9, it’s all about wine and hospitality change — each of the included works ask us to examine sustainability, curiosity, and the helpers in food and beverage writing.
Struggling to See Sustainable Change
It’s often said that to be a truly good writer, one must provoke. In past Rounds, I’ve noted my love–hate relationship with the VinePair podcast — and that tension is very much the point. Adam Teeter understands the game extremely well. He brings a very specific know-it-all millennial male energy, and he’s fully aware of it. That’s probably why I appreciate the show, even when the tone or topics irk me. At least they’re being honest — and only pulling a few, well-chosen punches.
I’ll be honest: I had VinePair muted from my media intake for awhile. Some of that was ego — they gave my beloved sherry a lot of hell, back in the day. And lately, it feels like non-alc gets similar treatment, but that’s a story for another time. This summer, I added them back into rotation, and even when I get annoyed, I’m genuinely impressed by what they’re doing right now.
Like it or not, the VinePair crew is probably doing one of the best jobs of covering the beverage industry today. I see Dry Atlas attempting something similar in the non-alc space, which I respect.
Here are two recent episodes, absolutely worth your time:
Why is Wine PR Struggling So Much? I’m not sure why this isn’t being discussed on every platform — especially LinkedIn. Oh wait, yes I do. VinePair has a lot of haters. This podcast isn’t for them, and I’m fully recommending it for all independent restaurants and bottle shops.
Listen closely to what Adam and the team say about pitching. Not only is it spot-on, it’s almost verbatim what I’ve done as an independent operator. It works, and I have the coverage receipts from 2015 and now to prove it.
Even if you don’t care about wine PR, if you’re a small, independent restaurant, this episode is worth your time. The lessons are A+.
Have Bars Bought In Too Heavily to Non-Alc Programs? I don’t believe bars have bought in too heavily — but I do think there’s a lack of much needed diversification. We don’t need endless zero-proof cocktails, but we do need more non-alc wine options, as well as more than one NA IPA. This conversation helps clarify why on-premise programs look the way they do right now.
At about the halfway mark, Adam talks about being a very good time - and it so resonated. I used to be known for walking around after my bar closed with a duffel bag size purse of wine. Wherever we ended up after last call, I made sure it was a very good time — which is great, until it’s not, as tends to happen for many of us in this industry.
So hearing Adam talk about a lot of folks on the spirits side being sober made complete sense to me. And now, it’s spilling into the wine world.
After two years alcohol-free, I can confidently say — especially given where dealc wine is right now and where it’s headed — that this growing contingent of sober and Cali-sober sommeliers is very real. If you’re not paying attention to it, you’re behind.
Annual Dealc Wine Bashing
’Tis the season for bashing dealcoholized wine — and now, apparently, Dry January too. Whatever the trend is this week or month, having high quality beverage options sans alcohol is always going to be “in”.
Last March I got the opportunity to sit down with Dave Baxter and Dallas Miller to talk innovation and technology in wine. And almost a year later, little has changed. Dealc wine, and ready-to-drink are still the top two ways I see as paths for the industry to meet both trade and consumers where they’re at — which lives in a crossover of ease, moderation, and curation.
Today, we’d be hard pressed to have the conversation without discussing the impact of THC — which is a whole mess for another time. But this year, Dave and Dallas did a full line-up tasting of dealc wines and they’ve got some real winners that are regularly making my lists and glass pours, these days. Check out Part I and II if you’re thirsty for more.
Don’t Sleep on WineStack
Good + Tasty might be my favorite Substack right now — and not just because Kathleen is generous about supporting so many of us WineStack folks. Also, I can’t set up another Google Alert for the industries I care about and this newsletter is doing some heavy lifting around important topics.
There are so many moving parts in beverage, and much like the world at large, things are changing at lightening speed. Lately, I’ve been especially drawn to wine writers who do thoughtful roundups — part of why I started Another Round at The Luncheonette was to pass some of that on to my community. I know many subscribers here care about the overlapping ecosystems of wine and hospitality — and sharing strong work still feels like a meaningful way to cut through some of the noise.
Here are two recent home runs Kathleen wrote in the wake of Dry January:
High & Dry Conversation: is it sobriety if weed is involved? Everyone has to figure out their own consumption and wellness journey. But their is growing evidence in the restaurant and beverage industries that High & Dry is a model a lot of folks are following these days.
Zebras in the Wild: Zebra Striping in Food & Wine? Love to see it. Yes, I am someone that no longer consumes alcohol - but I’m also in the camp of drink whatever you want. And pacing yourself, in any kind of consumption, is never a bad idea.
If you want to help our neighbors in Minneapolis, especially in food and beverage spaces, check out Beyond Beurre Blanc by Kirstie Kimball.
We all know Eat Street in South Minneapolis will never be the same after this weekend. Check out these two pieces from Kirstie — both with plenty of resources to be a helper, especially if getting out in the streets isn’t possible.
Sign ☮️ the Times
We are being forced to look at the signs — whether they are literal or metaphorical, and the times are clear: change is coming whether we’re ready or not. If you feel lost, don’t only look for the helpers, but look too for the artists that have been and are still lighting the way.
Couldn't ask for a better reflection on where we're at and where we're going, especially in light of everything happening all around us. You strike the perfect balance, Liz.